Finally, Paint Coatings for Each and Every Job
The right kind of coating is crucial. If you select the incorrect paint, it will not matter how much effort and money you spend on your project. Too many perfectly great paint projects deteriorate quickly because the incorrect primer and paint were used.
A dependable guideline is to complement the existing coating. If you're painting or staining over a latex paint, recoat with latex. You might have a variety of choices if the material is uncoated, nevertheless, you still need to consider local climate, maintenance, and durability to find the best covering for the job.
No-Fuss Painting Using Primers
Primer is the unsung hero of any quality paint job. It determines how well the top surface is protected and exactly how long the paint will last. Knowing when to use primers screws up painters almost as much as which primers to make use of. Basically, you need to use a primer if you are covering a new or bare surface; changing colors, textures, or finishes; or making a surface more uniform. About the sole time you don't need to prime is when you're recoating with the same paint and finish over a solid paint, for example, a flat latex paint over another flat latex paint.
To ensure compatibility, choose a product that's part of your paint system. By paint system I mean a primer and top coating manufactured by the same company. Labels of better paints always recommend specific primers and top coatings for various materials and conditions. If you don't want to cope with reading the small print, ask to see the spec, or data sheet, on a specific primer. In case a spec sheet isn't available, ask to see what's known as a “specifier’s guide,” although these guides probably have significantly more information than you will ever need and you might need help translating some of the terms and specifications.
Primers form an even base for the top coatings by penetrating, sealing, and bonding to all types of bare surfaces. Without first priming a new or reconditioned surface, you will discover that the top coats ends up flaking off much sooner than you would expect. Even though you may use additives such as Emulsabond, don't make the mistake of convinced that primers are optional, or can be produced out of diluted paint.
Usually in a single coat most primers smooth out surfaces and places which may have been scraped and sanded. Sometimes a surface will require a second coating of primer to ensure a smooth undercoat, but often one will do. The home pictured below serves as an exemplory case of a project where two layers of primer were used. The bare wood siding was primed with an oil-based primer for extra adhesion. Then, a latex primer was applied over all the siding to provide it an uniform base for the top coats. Some climates almost demand another coat of primer. I've heard about one contractor in Florida who always double primes to ensure that his jobs last. In the event that you live near to ocean water, I would recommend that you consider doing the same.
Primers highlight surface conditions by pointing out imperfections such as loose fibers in drywall and raised wood grain in trim. You might feel that a primer would even out a surface, but if you run your hand over a primed portion of wood trim it always feels abrasive. That's because primer makes out loose grain as it penetrates. After a dried primer has been lightly sanded, the smoothed surface is ready for layer. (Here is a tip: In the event that you tint your primer the color of the finish coat, you can actually quicken the painting process by reducing the amount of top coats needed. Tinting is mainly used for color changes, although it's also handy for areas like bare drywall.)
Amazing Way To Use Primers For Interior Wall Space and Ceilings
I recommend using latex primers wherever possible. Ask your paint dealer for advice on the best primer for interior problem areas, like the laundry room and bathroom, that require a good sealant and a water-resistant primer. I've always used alkyd primers in wetter areas of the home, although there are great latex primers that seal equally well. I prime most drywall interiors with latex, especially the sleeping rooms, living room, and closets. I spray a latex primer on new construction because new properties have enough vapor barriers. Also, I could paint an oil-based top coat over latex primer.
Older houses demand room-by-room decisions on what primer to work with. If the house doesn't have a vapor barrier or good ventilation, you will require a primer that seals the wall surfaces and keeps moisture from getting between your surface and the paint.
Latex stain blockers and sealers could be the answer to priming wet rooms in your residence. These quick drying primers help condition areas with water, smoke, and tannin spots, plus they can be recoated rapidly, sometimes within the hour. Pittsburgh's Seal Grip is a great latex stain blocker with few VOCs and all the advantages of an oil-based stain blocker. Quick drying alkyd primers such as Kilz have pigmented shellac (with high VOCs) that also acts as a stain killer and sealer, but I don't recommend these for latex top coats, the shellac might show through the latex. If your latex has what's known as “good hold" or hiding properties, it'll maintain an even sheen over primer. You may warrant compatibility by utilizing a high quality latex stain blocker such as Seal Grip.
With regards to walls, understand that plaster and drywall are different. Plaster is highly alkaline, specially when it's new, and it can leach alkaline salts if it isn't properly sealed. There are many primers you can use on plaster, depending on its condition and on the top layer and finish you've planned.
Drywall is a lot less alkaline than plaster. I usually prime drywall with a latex primer, unless the top coatings will be an oil-based paint, in which case I'll use an alkyd primer. (I understand that we now have perfectly good latex primers for any type of top layer, but old behaviors are hard to let go of.) When painting new drywall, I'll sometimes add joint compound to the primer for just a little texture. Mixed with primer, joint compound also helps even out over any sanding marks or roughness.
No-Fuss Priming For Interior Wood
When choosing primer, you should think about the nature and condition of the surface, the sort of paint (alkyd, latex, or epoxy) that is planned for the top coats, and the type of finish (flat, semi-gloss, or glossy).
Most often I prime interior trim with an exterior alkyd primer, which seals new wood and replaces lost moisture in older wood. There's also good water-based enamel primers for interior wood. Special conditions, like the high moisture common in bath rooms and kitchens, may call for a breathable latex primer if you cannot prime all around the wood. If you can completely apply primer the wood before it goes up, an alkyd primer will protect most of the trim from wetness. Assess conditions like these carefully and seek the advice of a specialist if your project has many different variables
No-Fuss Priming For Exteriors
Even though I favor latex paint for the exterior, I still choose to use alkyd primers on exterior wood. They simply do an improved job of priming bare wood. I'll use an alkyd primer if I know that the home does not have any major internal vapor problems and that the wood is in good shape (which often means that it's new), especially if I have access to the siding and wood trim before it is attached to the building. It's always better to seal all around the wood (but not the ends) to give each piece its own vapor barrier.
New redwood and cedar siding, as well as hardboard siding, needs special attention. Redwood and cedar will bleed tannins for a long time, even if the hardwood has air-dried for months. Before priming, you should wash out the tannin with a mild detergent, and follow this with a good rinsing. Redwood and cedar are quite porous, so you might need to wait a day or two to let them dry. There are a good chance that more tannin resin will seep to the surface, so avoid priming with latex because the resin will bleed through. Instead, use two coatings of an alkyd primer/sealer, and use high quality latex for the final layers. Any staining that occurs after that can usually be washed off with special hardwood cleaners.
Hardboard siding, new or already coated, presents a particular challenge. Having less grain or anything resembling a porous surface makes hardboards such as Masonite difficult to adhere to. In case the wood is new then pressure wash and rinse it. If water still beads up, wash it again to remove all the wax. Seal new hardboard with a specially formulated hardboard primer/sealer, such as Pittsburgh Paints Permanizer Plus Wood Stabilizer. When mixed with a top coating, Emulsabond makes a great hardboard primer. These and other top quality sealers also work very well on metal or vinyl siding, plywood veneers, textured wood, and other composite sidings.
Primers For Metals
Every steel should be cleaned of oil, grease, rust, or any other residue before you prime it, therefore the primer gets thorough contact with the surface. Most metal surfaces can be cleaned with a good thinner. Galvanized metals sometimes come from the factory with a stabilizer that may be tough to eliminate, and may need more than simply thinner. Check with your paint store if you wish to be certain a primer will continue to work on new galvanized metallic surfaces.
A couple of primers for each type of metal. Ferrous metals, made of iron and steel, should be primed with a rust inhibitor. Rust is nearly impossible to completely remove unless you sandblast it, and even then small pockets of rust can remain that will grow back under an unsealed surface or the incorrect primer. Rust inhibitors totally seal the surface from exposure to air. Some companies refer to these primers as direct-to-rust or direct-to-metal (DTM) primers. Smaller jobs like handrails can be primed with aerosol rust inhibitors such as Pratt & Lambert's Effecto Spray Enamel, which I've experienced good luck using.
Other metals, including copper, aluminum, bronze, and brass, should be layered with zinc-chromate primer. Some paint companies have a specific primer for new galvanized metal. Older galvanized material can be primed with a rust inhibitor like those mentioned previously.
As with any coating, the additional time the primer has to flow and contact the surface, the better the adhesion. Quick setting primers don't flow much at all and stay right where they're painted, for better or for worse. A clean surface is particularly important when using a quick drying primer. Remember that some paint manufacturers recommend cleaning metals (and most other surfaces) with a thinner, while others suggest against using any type of solvent cleaner. Read the directions carefully.
An old technique that still is effective for cleaning new or old metals is washing the outer layer with a one-to-one mix of vinegar and water. Vinegar is an all-purpose, inexpensive cleaner that will also etch a metal material if mixed at that ratio. Etching metal works like sanding wood. It gives the surface "teeth" for better adhesion. That same ratio is handy for new rain gutters or uncoated aluminum siding. However, it should not be utilized to clean galvanized metals, because the vinegar will harm the galvanizing.
No-Fuss Priming For Masonry
Be it inside or out, masonry usually requires a primer or sealer that will resist moisture and alkalis. Alkalis are salts that leach out over time, leaving a chalky stain called efflorescence. The source of the efflorescence, usually moisture, must be fixed for alkali-resistant primers and sealers to help. New masonry must cure for 90 days before you can apply primer and paint it, especially if it is highly alkaline, like stucco.
Sherwin Williams has a masonry primer called Loxon that withstands alkalinity up to pH 13; it could be painted on masonry that is seven days old. Stucco, which is basically coloured mortar and filled with lime, is a perfect surface for Loxon, as is new plaster or poured concrete. Pittsburgh Paints also has a primer for new, high-alkaline masonry, called Speedhide Alkali Resistant Primer; it's made for oil-based paint. Additionally you can add this primer to cured masonry with a latex top coating, but it's important that you use latex only on low alkaline masonry. In these situations I've had success adding Emulsabond to the latex for extra adhesion. I would recommend it for many masonry applications.
Etching with muriatic acid used to be the only procedure to speed up the curing time of cement. You may still etch if you are so willing, although if I never see another container of muriatic acid, that could be just fine. (If it etches cement, imagine how well it etches skin!) Etching requires a bucket, hose, brush, gloves, and complete eye and skin protection, don't forget a respirator, in particular when you mix the acid with the water. Important: Add the acid to water, not the other way around. In the event that you add water to acid it will splash and burn off anything it contacts. And combine it in the correct ratio, usually 1:3. Be sure you have brushes, sponges, towels, and least one 5 gallon bucket of clean water for emergencies, and another 5 gallon bucket for rinsing.
Reconditioning older, peeling cement floors can be considered a chore. It's best to keep them well looked after and recoat them regularly, before they need to be completely redone. Cement surfaces in really poor condition should be sandblasted, or you may use a new system called Peel-Away which makes prepping masonry a bit easier (it's still no picnic). If the surface is in good condition, prep the floor and remove any trace of grease or wax with a good thinner.
For new concrete floors, I recommend a concrete stain created by H&C or Okon; they come in water based and silicone acrylic. My preference is the water based stain, since silicone is a wax that eventually will wash off. Cement stain penetrates and seals without requiring scraping or sandblasting, and resists fading better than a top covering like latex.
Older, pre-painted cement floors have to be repainted with an identical top coating, whether latex or alkyd. A latex top coat is best applied over a standard concrete sealer, but Emulsabond also works well. An oil-based top coat requires an oil-based enamel or epoxy concrete conditioner. I'd add Penetrol to the primer for a longer lasting bond.
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